Rotator Mk1 - SARCNET

• 20W solar panel
• 10A MPPT Solar Charge Controller
• 12V 7AH SLA Battery
• 12V-USB Power Converter
• Raspberry Pi, running Gpredict and HAMLIB rotctld/rigctld
• LCD Monitor, Mouse and Keyboard
• Dual-band Arrow antenna
• Yaesu FT-817 transceiver
• Our Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk1

• Description
• Parts List DC Motor Version
• Parts List AC Motor Version
• Project Status
  
• Latest Software
• Status reported by builders
• Problems experienced by some builders
• In the news
• Testing the Arduino Pro Micro stand-alone
  
• Assembly DC Motor Version
• Assembly AC Motor Version
• Installation
• Sensor Orientation
• Compilation/Upload Instructions
  
• Set to work instructions (Part 1)
• Calibration Instructions
• Set to work instructions (Part 2)
• Installing Gpredict and HAMLIB
• Operating Instructions
• Cautions
  
• Safety
• Limitations

//User configuration section:

//Please uncomment only one of each of the following MotorTypes, SensorTypes and SerialPort types:

//const int MotorType = PWMDIR;      //Please uncomment this line for the LMD18200T DC motor driver.

const int MotorType = FWDREV;     //Please uncomment this line for the L298N DC motor driver.

//const int MotorType = ACMOTR;       //Please uncomment this line for the triac AC motor driver.

//const int SensorType = LSM303D;   //Please uncomment this line to use the LSM303D sensor.

const int SensorType = LSM303DLHC;   //Please uncomment this line to use the LSM303DLHC sensor.

#define SerialPort Serial            //Please uncomment this line to use the USB port.

//#define SerialPort Serial1         //Please uncomment this line to use the TTL port.

• We submitted our original article to Amateur Radio magazine in December 2015 and again in February 2016. It was published in the May 2016 edition.
  
• We demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk1 to the Amateur Radio Victoria Homebrew Group.
  
• AR Magazine, June 2016. SOTA and Parks News by Allen Harvie VK3ARH. VK3 Show and Tell - Sunday 17 April 2016 - Brisbane Ranges National Park: "... Another highlight, among many, was provided by Joe VK3YSP. Joe set up his Portable Satellite gear, complete with mini computer controlled rotator for a demonstration earlier in the day and was ready and waiting for an early afternoon pass of amateur satellite designated FO-29. Right on cue, FO-29 came over the horizon and Joe completed what is believed to be the first WWFF contact from an Australian VKFF Park via Satellite. Joe exchanged greetings from the Park, the Park designator and name, and a valid signal report with Geoff VK2ZAZ. This was an effort by Joe and enjoyed by all present."
  

• We presented and demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk1 at GippsTech 2016 on July 9th & 10th 2016.
• We demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk2 to the Amateur Radio Victoria Homebrew Group
• We demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk2 to the Melbourne Space Program team on March 18 2017.
• We demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk2 at the Wireless Institute of Australia AGM on May 21 2017.
• We presented and demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk2 at GippsTech 2017 on July 1 2017.
• We demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk1 to the South East Radio Group on June 10 2018. It won first choice of the Home Brew prize!
• We presented and demonstrated the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Mk3 and Mk4 at GippsTech 2018

1. Install the latest version of the Arduino IDE from https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software.
2. Connect the Arduino Nano via a mini USB cable to the PC USB port.
3. Open the Arduino IDE.
4. Select File | Examples | 01.Basics | Blink.
5. Select Sketch | Verify/Compile (Ctrl+R). You should see "Compiling sketch..." followed by "Done compiling"
6. Select Tools | Board | Arduino AVR Boards | Arduino Nano.
7. Determine the virtual serial port used by the controller:
   
1. On Linux start a terminal window and type: dmesg | grep "USB ACM device" Make a note of the tty devices.
2. On Windows start device manager and look under "Ports" for "USB Serial Device" or "Arduino". Make a note of the "COM" numbers.
3. Plug the Arduino Nano into the PC using the USB cable
4. Repeat step 6 and identify the new tty device or COM port number
5. Select Tools | Port and the tty device or COM port number that was added.
8. Check the bottom line of the Arduino IDE shows "Arduino Nano on" and the correct  COM port of tty device.
9. Select Sketch | Upload (Ctrl+U). You should see "Uploading...". The Arduino Nano LEDs will flash. Then see "Done uploading".
   
10. This indicates that you can successfully compile and upload an Arduino file.
11. If you can't upload. May we suggest these steps before trying to upload again:
1. Try selecting Tools | Processor | ATmega328P (Old Bootloader)
2. Try closing the IDE. Disconnecting and re-connecting the controller. Starting the IDE again.

1. The hardest part of the build was precision-marking and drilling the holes in the Enclosure. We recommend sticking adhesive paper labels to the outside of the Enclosure, scribing construction lines on them using a digital vernier caliper, centre-punching and drilling pilot holes first. A drawing of the Motor mounting holes can be found in the Motor datasheet here. Check three times - drill once.
   
2. Drill 1 x 2mm Beeper mounting hole.
3. Drill 8 x 3.5mm Motor mounting holes.
4. Drill 4 x 3.5mm Motor Driver mounting holes.
5. Drill 2 x 6.5mm Motor shaft holes.
6. Drill 1 x 20mm Cable Gland hole with a step drill.
7. Slightly countersink the Motor shaft holes on the inside of the Enclosure for the O-rings.
   
8. Install 4 x M3 x 6mm tapped nylon Spacers for the Motor Driver to the inside of the Enclosure using 4 x M3 x 8mm pan head screws.
   
9. Install a Cable Gland on the bottom of the Enclosure for the PC, Power and Sensor cables.
   
10. Mount a Cable Tie Saddle to the 3rd boss from the left at the top of the Enclosure using a 4G x 6mm pan head self tapping screw.
    
11. Pass a small Cable Tie through the Cable Tie Saddle, but do not fasten.
12. Consult the schematic diagram below.
13. Cut the +12V track on the rear of the Motor Driver board between the two solder pads.
    
14. Solder a 1N5819 Schottky Diode between the two solder pads, with the white band (cathode) facing into the PCB.
15. Solder 150mm of orange, purple, blue and grey hookup wire from the Arduino Nano pins D5, D6, D9 and D10 to the Motor Driver pins IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4.
    
16. Solder 1m of yellow, green and black wires, from the 4-way telephone cable, to the Arduino Nano pins A4, A5, GND
17. Solder 1m of red wire, from the 4-way telephone cable, and 150mm of red hookup wire to the Arduino Nano 5V pin.
    
18. Solder 150mm of red and black hookup wire from the Arduino Nano pins D11 and D12 to the Beeper pins + and -. Use heat-shrink tubing over the Beeper pins.
    
19. Solder 150mm of black hookup wire to Arduino Nano GND pin.
    
20. Connect the free red and black hookup wires from the Arduino Nano to the Motor Driver 5V and GND terminals.
21. Solder 150mm brown and black hookup wires to the Motor + and - pins. Cover solder joints with heat-shrink tubing.
    
22. Connect Motor Driver OUT1 and OUT2 terminals to the Azimuth Motor black and brown wires.
23. Connect Motor Driver OUT3 and OUT4 terminals to the Elevation Motor black and brown wires.
24. Note: Be prepared to reverse the motor wiring as the motor direction of movement is not standardised.
25. Consult the assembly diagram below.
    
26. Pass the USB Cable mini USB connector through the Cable Gland from outside the Enclosure.
    
27. Connect the USB Cable mini USB connector to the Arduino Nano, passing the cable between the Motor Driver spacers.
    
28. Secure the Arduino Nano to the Cable Tie Saddle using the Cable Tie.
    
29. Crimp and shrink an Automotive Bullet and Socket connector in series with the ground wire of the Power Cable 150mm from one end as a Quick-Disconnect safety device. The Automotive Socket connector should be closer to the short end.
30. Pass the Power Cable, Quick-Disconnect end, through the Cable Gland from the outside of the Enclosure.
    
31. Connect Motor Driver V+ and GND terminals to the red and black power cable. Note: Check that the two black wires are properly secured in the same terminal.
    
32. Pass the Sensor Cable from the Arduino Nano between the Motor Driver spacers and through the Cable Gland
    
33. Slip 5mm O-rings over the Motor shafts before assembly. The O-rings are important for ingress protection, but their friction also counters some motor backlash in operation.
    
34. Mount the Motors with 2 x M3 x 6mm pan head screws and 2 x M3 x 8mm pan head screws, each, with the longer screws associated with the following washer arrangement. Warning: If either set of screws is too long they will penetrate and damage the gearbox.
    
35. Add two flat washers to the AZ motor mounting screws on the side near the lid to counter the chamfer in the rotator case.
36. Add two flat washers to the EL motor mounting screws on the side near the top to counter the droop in the horizontal drive shaft.
37. Install the Motor Driver on the nylon Spacers, over the USB and Sensor Cable, with 4 x M3 x 6mm countersunk screws.
    
38. Apply a little super-glue to the front face of the Beeper. Insert a 2mm drill shank 5mm into the beeper hole in the Enclosure. Position the Beeper hole over the drill shank. Use the drill shank to guide the Beeper into final position. Hold the Beeper against the Enclosure for 60 seconds to permit the super-glue to set.
39. Secure the Power, Sensor and USB cables in the Cable Gland.
40. Solder the Sensor Cable to the 3D Sensor and enclose it in adhesive heat-shrink tubing to weather-proof it.
41. Connect the USB Cable to the PC USB port.
42. Connect the Power Cable to a 12 VDC, 1 Amp, Power Supply.
43. Install A DC safety cutoff switch.  
    
44. WARNING: These DC Motors are so powerful that they will cause severe damage and harm due to any malfunction or error. Never to be used unattended.

1. The AC Motor version uses external rotators, but the electronics are mounted in the same enclosure as the DC Motor version.
2. Drill 1 x 2mm Beeper mounting hole.
3. Drill 4 x 3.5mm Triac Driver mounting holes.
   
4. Install 4 x M3 x 6mm tapped nylon Spacers for the Triacr Driver to the inside of the Enclosure using 4 x M3 x 8mm pan head screws.
   
5. Install a Cable Gland on the bottom of the Enclosure for the PC, Power and Sensor cables.
   
6. Mount a Cable Tie Saddle to the 3rd boss from the left at the top of the Enclosure using a 4G x 6mm pan head self tapping screw.
   
7. Pass a small Cable Tie through the Cable Tie Saddle , but do not fasten.
   
8. Consult the schematic diagram below.
9. Solder 150mm of orange, purple, blue and grey hookup wire from the Arduino Nano pins D5, D6, D9 and D10 to the Triac Driver pins IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4.
   
10. Solder 1m of yellow, green and black wires, from the 4-way telephone cable, to the Arduino Nano pins A4, A5, GND
11. Solder 1m of red wire, from the 4-way telephone cable, and 150mm of red hookup wire to the Arduino Nano 5V pin.
    
12. Solder 150mm of red and black hookup wire from the Arduino Nano pins D11 and D12 to the Beeper pins + and -. Use heat-shrink tubing over the Beeper pins.
13. Consult the assembly diagram below.
    
14. Pass the USB Cable mini USB connector through the Cable Gland from outside the Enclosure.
    
15. Connect the USB Cable mini USB connector to the Arduino Nano, passing the cable between the Motor Driver spacers.
    
16. Secure the Arduino Nano to the Cable Tie Saddle using the Cable Tie.
    
17. Pass the Sensor Cable from the Arduino Nano through the Cable Gland
    
18. Install the Triac Driver on the nylon Spacers, over the USB and Sensor Cable, with 4 x M3 x 6mm countersunk screws.
    
19. Apply a little super-glue to the front face of the Beeper. Insert a 2mm drill shank 5mm into the beeper hole in the Enclosure. Position the Beeper hole over the drill shank. Use the drill shank to guide the Beeper into final position. Hold the Beeper against the Enclosure for 60 seconds to permit the super-glue to set.
20. Secure the Sensor and USB cables in the Cable Gland.
21. Solder the Sensor Cable to the 3D Sensor and enclose it in adhesive heat-shrink tubing to weather-proof it.
22. Connect Triac Driver LOAD-1, LOAD-2 to the AZ Motor.
    
23. Connect Triac Driver LOAD-3, LOAD-4 to the EL Motor.
    
24. Note: Be prepared to reverse the motor wiring as the motor direction of movement is not standardised.
25. Connect a 100uF 50V Bipolar Capacitor across each of the motor windings.  
26. Connect Triac Driver LOAD-1 Common and LOAD-2 Common to the 20VAC plugpack that comes with the AZ Channel Master rotator.
    
27. Connect AZ Motor Common to the 20VAC plugpack that comes with the AZ Channel Master rotator.
    
28. Connect Triac Driver LOAD-3 Common and LOAD-4 Common to the 20VAC plugpack that comes with the EL Channel Master rotator.
    
29. Connect EL Motor Common to the 20VAC plugpack that comes with the EL Channel Master rotator.
    
30. Install an AC Mains safety cutoff switch. Do not use AC Mains voltages outside.   
    
31. WARNING: These AC Rotators are so powerful that they will cause severe damage and harm due to any malfunction or error. Never to be used unattended.
32. Connect the USB Cable to the PC USB port.
33. Note that the Azimuth rotator has to be modified using this modification procedure to remove the 360-degree stop pins. Caution: This modification will void the warranty. Note: The last step in the procedure requires you to drill out the two stop pins without leaving any metal swarf in the gearbox - piece of cake :-).
    
34. There is a video of the working controller here and a video of the working rotator here.

1. Note: The following parts required are not shown in the parts list, as individual requirements differ.
2. Round the sharp edges of a Lift-Arm made from 500 x 30 x 30 x 3mm (or 1.6mm) aluminium angle.
   
3. Make a Counterweight from a 101 x 51 x 25mm diecast aluminium box: Altronics H0451, Hammond 1590G or similar. Filled with lead to a total weight of 860g/1.9lb.
4. Attach the Counterweight to one end of the Lift-Arm with a self-tapping metal screw.
5. Attach the Arrow Antenna and cables to the Lift-Arm using Velcro. This is for quick release of the antenna and hand-held operation, if required.
6. Find the balance point of the assembly by rolling the lift arm over a piece of dowel.
7. Attach a 6mm Shaft-Hub to the Lift-Arm close to the balance point. Ours was 140mm from the antenna end. A slight front-heavy balance offset will reduce backlash. This might be provided by the antenna cables.
   
8. Attach the Lift-Arm to the Rotator's EL motor shaft using the 6mm Shaft-Hub and tighten the hub screws, flat side first.
   
9. Prepare an Extra Heavy Duty Speaker Tripod. Try Altronics C0520A. Remove the speaker bracket if fitted.
   
10. Attach a 6mm Shaft-Hub to the top of the Tripod using a 25mm irrigation-pipe Threaded Plug, M3 x 12mm cheese-head screws, flat washers, spring washers and nuts. Fix with self-tapping screws to the tripod. Replace the grub screws on the Shaft-Hub with M3 x 4mm hex cap screws to obtain sufficient tighening torque.
11. Attach the Rotator's AZ motor shaft to the tripod and tighten the Shaft-Hub screws, flat side first. Caution: Over-tightening the screws will strip the threads.
12. Leaving enough slack for the rotator cables to wrap twice around the tripod mast Then secure the power cable to the mast using a hose clamp or split pin and cable tie. Should the rotator turn more than twice an any direction, the Quick-Disconnect device will activate to stop the rotator.
13. Mount the flat side of the 3D Sensor against the top side of Lift Arm with double-sided tape or Velcro. See: Sensor Orientation for details. Keep the 3D Sensor away from the VHF/UHF driven elements to avoid RF interference to the sensor. Don't use high power for satellites. Use clip-on, ferrite cores on the 3D Sensor Cable if necessary.

1. Open the Arduino IDE.
2. Select File|Preference to find out your sketchbook location.
3. Open the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator Arduino code file (Rotator7.zip).
4. Copy the Rotator7 folder to your sketchbook location.
5. Select File|Open|Rotator7|Rotator7.ino. You should see thirteen files open in the IDE as shown below.
6. Select Sketch Verify/Complile (Ctrl+R). You should see "Done compiling" and no errors.
7. Select Sketch Upload (Ctrl+U). You should see "Done uploading" and no errors.

• With the rotator assembly completed it is time to test the 3D Sensor and Controller
• Connect the Mini Satellite-Antenna Rotator controller USB port to a PC or Raspberry Pi or whatever, but do not connect the 12 VDC or 20 VAC motor supply.
• Start the Arduino IDE and open the rotator sketch
• Press Upload to reboot the Arduino
• Start up the IDE Serial Monitor (button at top right). Select "Carriage return" from the dropdown box.
• Type h<Enter> to display the help menu:

Commands:

az el -(0..360 0..90)

r -Reset

eNN.N -MagDecl

c -Calibrate

s -Save

a -Abort

d -Demo

b -Debug

m -Monitor

p -Pause

• Type b<Enter> to enter the debug mode and display the raw sensor data (Mx, My, Mz, Gx, Gy and Gz):

Debugging in progress: Press 'a' to abort

18,-780,-219,2175,16178,5825

18,-780,-219,2178,16180,5827

18,-780,-219,2179,16181,5828

18,-781,-219,2179,16182,5830

18,-780,-219,2179,16184,5830

18,-781,-219,2180,16186,5832

18,-781,-219,2182,16189,5835

18,-781,-219,2182,16191,5834

18,-781,-219,2182,16193,5836

18,-781,-219,2181,16195,5835

• As you turn the sensor all around you should see each of the six numbers changing from positive to negative over approximately the same range.
• Type a<Enter> to abort the debug mode

1. Go on-line to calculate the magnetic declination in your area. Go to http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/geomag-web/. Enter your country and city. Press "Add Lat/Lon" then press "Calculate" to get your magnetic declination. Say it is 11 degrees, 40 minutes, East. Convert this number to decimal degrees by dividing the minutes part by 60 and adding it to the degrees part, so that's 40/60=0.7 plus 11 equals 11.7. Use a negative number (-11.7) if it says West instead of East.
   
2. Make sure the 12 VDC or 20 VAC motor supply is disconnected. Connect the PC to the rotator using the USB cable.
3. Start the Arduino IDE and open the rotator sketch.
4. Press Upload to reboot the Arduino and start up the IDE Serial Monitor.
5. Type in e11.7<Enter> to enter the magnetic declination (make sure you type in your own value). Then s<Enter> to save it.
6. Now start the calibration process by typing c<Enter>.
7. You can abort the process at any time by typing a<Enter>.
8. When you have completed the calibration process, properly, just type s<Enter> to save the calibration data to non-volatile memory.
9. To calibrate the sensor you have to move it around very, very slowly. Don't bump it in the slightest or even think about changing hands.
10. It helps to tape the sensor and the sensor cable to the back of plastic or wooden ruler and hold the ends of the ruler in each hand.
11. Move the sensor around. The Beeper will beep and you will see the 3D magnetometer (M) and accelerometer (G) errors and scaling factors changing on the screen.
12. You can pretty much keep moving the sensor all around until the Beeper stops beeping or the data stops changing, but there is a trick to doing it properly.
13. Think of the sensor as a cube with six faces. You need to point each face in the direction of the Earth's magnetic field and again in the direction of the earth's gravitational field. The gravitational field points straight down, while the magnetic field points up (in the Southern hemisphere) to the North at an angle of about 70 degrees to the horizontal. There are 12 directions and you have to move the sensor a little bit around each point until the Beeper stops beeping or the data stops changing.
14. If you make a mistake type a<Enter> to abort the process.
    
15. If all goes well type s<Enter> to save the calibration data when you have finished.
16. You can then type r<Enter> to reset the controller and reload the stored calibration data. The calibration data is in the following format: MD, MEx, MEy, MEz, GEx, GEy, GEz, MSx, MSy, MSz, GSx GSy, GSz. Where MD is the Magnetic Declination, ME is the Magnetometer Error, GE is the Accelerometer Error, MS is the Magnetometer Scaling, GS is the Accelerometer Scaling.
    

Calibration in progress: Press 'a' to abort or 's' to save

11.7,-11.0,10.0,1.0,-14.0,322.0,598.0,756.0,768.0,649.0,16277.0,16859.0,16303.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2171.0,16295.0,5763.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2170.0,16295.0,5762.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,1.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2170.0,16295.0,5762.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,1.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2170.0,16295.0,5762.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2170.0,16293.0,5763.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,2.0,2.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2169.0,16293.0,5763.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,2.0,3.0,2.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2168.0,16293.0,5763.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,2.0,3.0,2.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2168.0,16293.0,5763.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,2.0,3.0,2.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2168.0,16293.0,5764.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,2.0,3.0,3.0

11.7,21.0,-784.0,-218.0,2168.0,16293.0,5764.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,3.0,3.0,3.0

11.7,-11.0,10.0,1.0,-14.0,322.0,598.0,756.0,768.0,649.0,16277.0,16859.0,16303.0

Function aborted

1. Once the calibration data is saved to the EEPROM you can continue to set the rotator to work.
2. Make sure the 12 VDC or 20 VAC motor supply is disconnected. Connect the PC to the rotator using the USB cable.
3. Start the Arduino IDE and open the rotator sketch.
4. Press Upload to reboot the Arduino and start up the IDE Serial Monitor.
5. In the IDE Serial Monitor type m<Enter> to enter the monitor mode.
6. You should see the rotator data as shown below, comprising: Current AZ and EL, Setpoint AZ and EL, AZ windup angle, AZ windup state, AZ and EL error.
7. Verify the Current AZ and EL numbers reflect the sensor true azimuth and elevation
8. Make sure the lift arm is disconnected. Connect the 12 VDC or 20 VAC motor supply.
   
9. Observe the IDE Serial Monitor display and observe the motor movement while looking directly at the motor shafts.
10. Point the sensor North East. The first number should be between 0 and +90. The AZ motor should turn CCW.
11. Point the sensor North West. The first number should be between 0 and -90. The AZ motor should turn CW.
12. Point the sensor 45 degrees Down. The second number should be between 0 and -90. The EL motor should turn CW.
13. Point the sensor 45 degrees Up. The first number should be between 0 and 90. The EL motor should turn CCW.
14. If a motor moves in the wrong direction, reverse the motor wires by swapping the OUT1 and OUT2 connections on the appropriate Motor Driver board.
15. Disconnect the 12 VDC or 20 VAC motor supply. Attach the rotator to a sturdy tripod or rigid mount. Attach the lift arm to the rotator. Attach the sensor along the bore-sight of the lift arm.
    
16. Disconnect the USB cable.
17. While carefully monitoring the lift arm, ready to disconnect the 12 VDC or 20 VAC motor supply if something goes wrong. Connect the 12 VDC or 20 VAC motor supply - there should be no movement.
    
18. Connect the USB cable. The lift arm should swing around to 0 degrees AZ/EL and stop.
19. Turn and tilt the tripod. The rotator should restore the lift arm to this home position.
20. In the Arduino IDE Serial Monitor type m<Enter> then type 30 45<Enter>.
21. The lift arm should swing around to approximately 30 degrees AZ and 45 degrees EL.

Monitoring in progress: Press 'a' to abort

26,40,30,45,31,0,-4,-5

27,41,30,45,31,0,-3,-4

28,42,30,45,31,0,-2,-3

29,43,30,45,31,0,-1,-2

30,44,30,45,31,0,0,-1

30,45,30,45,31,0,0,0

30,45,30,45,30,0,0,0

11.7,-11.0,10.0,1.0,-14.0,322.0,598.0,756.0,768.0,649.0,16277.0,16859.0,16303.0

Function aborted

• The easy way to install and run Gpredict and HAMLIB for Windows is by using this file. You should open it and follow the step by step directions therein. It will help you create a Tracking shortcut on the PC Desktop, which you can use to start HAMLIB and Gpredict in an orderly and unobtrusive manner. Closing Gpredict will automatically close HAMLIB.
  
• Click on the Tracking shortcut to start HAMLIB and Gpredict.
  
• Note: The rotator emulates the AMSAT Easycomm II protocol. It permits Gpredict to set the AZ-EL angle of the rotator and it is the only rotator protocol which supports rotator position feedback, allowing Gpredict to display the rotator position as well.

• Use a RPi Version 3 or 4 with built-in WiFi, or a version 2 with a USB WiFi dongle. Add a PiFace Real Time Clock if you want to use it portable.
• Start by downloading the the latest Raspberry Pi OS imager from here to create your micro SD card image.
• When your Raspberry Pi OS is installed and running, open a terminal window and execute the following commands.
• sudo apt-get update
• sudo apt-get upgrade
• sudo apt-get install gpredict
• Please install HAMLIB manually to get the absolute latest version.
  • Browse to: https://github.com/Hamlib/Hamlib/wiki/Download#latest-release
  • Note the latest release number e.g. 4.5.5. Replace the actual number wherever you see this number below
  • cd ~/Downloads/
    
  • mkdir hamlib
  • cd hamlib
  • wget https://github.com/Hamlib/Hamlib/releases/download/4.5.5/hamlib-4.5.5.tar.gz
  • tar -xvzf hamlib*
    
  • cd hamlib-4.5.5
  • ./configure
  • make
  • sudo make install
  • sudo ldconfig
• Plug the rotator into to a USB port and start the HAMLIB rotator control daemon in a terminal window:
  • rotctld -m 202 -r /dev/ttyACM0 -s 9600 -C timeout=500 -vvv
  • Where: 202 is the model number for a rotator emulating AMSAT Easycomm II protocol
    
• Plug the radio, via a CAT cable, into a USB port and start the HAMLIB rig control daemon in a terminal window:
  • rigctld -m MMM -r /dev/ttyUSB0  -s 38400 -T 127.0.0.1 -t 4532 -vvvvvvvv
  • Where: MMM is the HAMLIB model number for your radio and 38400 is the CAT baud rate of your radio.

• r - Reset. Prints the calibration data. Resets the rotator to the home position and resets the windup value.
  
• b - Debug mode. Prints the raw sensor data: Mx, My, Mz, Gx, Gy and Gz.
  
• c - Calibrate mode. Displays the calibration data only when it changes.
  
• d - Demo mode. Tracks linearly through the following AZ/EL points in a cycle: 0/0, 90/90, 0/180, 90/90 0/0, -90/90, -180/0, -90/90, 0/0
  
• m - Monitor mode. Prints current AZ and EL, set points for AZ and EL, the AZ windup angle, the AZ windup state, the AZ and EL error.
  
• a - Abort Calibrate, Monitor or Demo mode
  
• e - Enter Magnetic Declination. e.g. e11.7<Enter>. It is positive for East or negative for West.
  
• s - Save Magnetic Declination and Calibration Data.
  
• h - Help
  
• p - Pause
  

• This is a DIY project for the experience builder. We are not responsible for your time, costs, tools, availability or substitution of parts.
• Beware of moving parts - Unit may move at any time without warning. Do not stand or permit anyone to stand in the vicinity of the operating unit.
• Beware of eye hazard - Moving satellite antennas are prickly. Eye protection is recommended.
• Beware of pinch hazard - Keep fingers away from moving parts.
• Beware of electromagnetic radiation hazard - Do not use with high power transmitters. Recommend 10 Watts maximum.
• Beware of electrocution hazard - Do not use near power lines.
• Beware of lightning hazard - Do not use in thunderstorms, rainy or windy conditions.
• Beware of fire hazard - The unit has no built-in over-voltage or over-current protection.
• Not suitable for unattended operation.
• Not suitable for fixed or permanent outdoor operation.
• Automatically connects to the Internet: Adult permission and charges may apply.
• Constant adult supervision of the operation is required to prevent injury, especially around children.
• Constant adult supervision of the operation is required to prevent damage to the unit, anything attached to the unit or anything in the vicinity of the unit.
• Constant adult supervision of the operation of radio transmitters is required at all times. You must check your licence conditions and operating frequency.
• Antenna, tripod, lift arm, mountings, cables or anything in the vicinity of the unit may be damaged under normal operation or due to software malfunction.
• The motors are light-duty and the antenna provides a lot of leverage on the motor shafts: Do not force them, tip over the tripod or drop its vertical shaft. Avoid striping the metal gears.
• Installation of a quick-disconnect connector in the power lead and safety DC cut-off switch is recommended.

• Suitable for rotating only a single, small directional antenna (e.g. A handheld, dual-band, Yagi antenna such as an Arrow antenna) using a counterbalanced lift arm.
• Not suitable for applications requiring high pointing accuracy e.g. parabolic dishes for EME. +/- 5 degree accuracy is possible with optimal calibration, but is not guaranteed.
  
• Unit will oscillate unless solidly mounted only on a rigid stand, such as a heavy-duty (speaker) tripod.